A new era for the luxury menswear
He declined a proposal from Dior as John Galliano successor, Maison Martin Margiela approached him after Martin Margiela left his own brand, Karl Lagerfeld sees his as a potential creative director of Chanel after his retirement. But for Haider Ackermann, his brand was the comfort zone of his creativity, and he rejected all the proposals. Until a luxury French menswear house approached him a season ago.
For the fashion world was a surprise when Berluti, the only exclusively menswear brand of LVMH, approached the avant-garde designer with a unique aesthetic to be the new creative director of the brand. Let’s say the decision was unusual, but this was the most expected show to see for the upcoming FW17 season.
Haider Ackermann is known for his rich, dark, romantic designs, the amazing drapes and game of the fabrics for his womenswear collections but he was never considered as a menswear designer even that he presents small collections for men the past three years under his name. And even that the fashion world was thinking of this decision as a bizarre, the Colombian-born designer did well. Very well. His work for Berluti reminds of his work for his womenswear collections – vibrant colors and textures, silk, velvet, and a lot of leather, some romance. At the same time, the collection that he presents is very recognizable and follows the French house aesthetic for perfectly tailored menswear. It’s a bold mixture of elegance and traditional tailoring with a nice twist of layering, unexpected fabrics, a mix of bold colors and exotic leathers.
Because as Ackermann says “I didn’t want to make men beautiful or handsome. I wanted to create an attitude”.
Well done we must say.