Lights, Camera, Action…Petals falling from the sky and the Dior dancer took center stage wearing tights with Maria Grazia Chiuri’s signature embroidery: stars, moon, and the sun just like Chiara Ferragni’s wedding dress. If rumors are true, then we couldn’t think of a better way for Chiuri to leave the house of Dior. “La Prima Donna” of the Maison took inspiration once again from women, specifically artists, but this time it was all about the great female dancers such as Isadora Duncan, Pina Bausch, and Sharon Eyal who’s based in Tel-A-Viv and choreographed the dance for the show. In attendance, friends of the brands were seen seating front-row such as Caroline Issa, Blake Lively, Kim Jones, and Olivia Palermo.
For the Spring/Summer 2019 collection, Chiuri introduced elements to her vision that she had never used before such as jersey and fishnet. From the very first look that walked out, the mood of the collection was clear: strength and drama were distinctive pointers that must have been given to the models. Every step that each one of them took felt like the girls were putting their foot down; after all, it is the year of female empowerment and Chiuri although a firm believer of the cause has been able to use it entirely to the brand’s advantage. Dior is now synonymous with Feminism!Although the silhouettes were classic Maria Grazia Chiuri for Dior, the color palette forming the 88 looks was rather dark for a spring/summer collection. If you ask us, that’s also a sleek way to confirm departure rumors, we might be wrong, but maybe it’s a designer thing, who can forget that dark spring/summer collection Marc Jacobs led down the runway for his final collection for Louis Vuitton!? Or perhaps this comes from the fact that the designer as per Sharon Eyal’s interview really wanted to connect the collection to dance. And as we all know, dancers must have a specific discipline and strict regimen. Double breasted vests and jackets came in all different forms but were paired with knee length or see-through skirts and cargo pants, these looks really made the collection have an even more rigid style. As one of Duncan’s quotes which was written at the entrance “Dance is the movement of the universe, concentrated in an individual” and if that’s the case, the Dior girl this season is embracing her world and is clearly all about comfort and elegance. Most of the pieces reminded us of the after-performance looks dancers usually opt for, crochet ensembles or light tutus for practice and the chiffon dress that’s easy to throw over jersey tights were all seen on the runway.The inspiration beautifully interpreted was reflected in the clothes. It was a story that needed no translation. The different tights, bandage sandals, and ballet slippers were seen in black, and nude, some were even made pointy. The CD branded belts might just be the new IT accessory but are probably underrated for now. Of course, the saddle bag which has been overly advertised by both influencers and Dior in our opinion was all over the runway. Although we insist that all we could think about was: rigidity, discipline, and passion, we also got a sense of fluidity and flexibility not just from the performance of the dancers but even in the clothes.
Chiuri gave us a fresh outlook on florals, they were done with all over embroidery mixed with prints that provided a “trompe à l’oeil” feeling. The tie-dye was seen on pants and tote bags. But if we’re honest, it’s the one part of the collection that we felt was a little misplaced, as well as the ethnic prints that were seen on some blouses. To finish it off, towards the end of the show, lots of tulle and tutus walked down the runway, but thankfully because of the styling, the added beret, and double strap headbands, it didn’t feel cliché but rather that the French off-duty classic or contemporary dancer came to life!
By Anne-Isabelle Saint-Pierre