Some people build carousels or airports, but when it comes to Alessandro Michele at Gucci, they prefer historical venues, not to say that they don’t add their own twist to it. This season, Alessandro opt to blind us up with some smoke by putting us in an environment with fire pits, church clocks and all the jazz that comes with being in a cemetery promenade. The Gucci Resort 2019, indeed took place at the Promenade Des Alyscamps in Arles, a Roman cemetery located in the South of France. Michele invited 400 guests, to the ancient site where Roman citizens were buried, as the French city was previously occupied by Roman rulers. What better location to choose from when the Roman designer as said that he’s in fact “fascinated by the idea of the death.” Before the show he described Alyscamps as “not (really) a cemetery, it was a promenade, it became a walk in the 1700s; it is hybridized, it does not look like a cemetery because it is and it isn’t. I like things that seem like something but are not.”Regardless of how perfectly aligned the inspiration is with the venue, we can’t help up but wonder with all the flames and fire around the runway, that it might be a way for the designer to really distract us from what’s really happening. The style, silhouette and color scheme of Alessandro Michele’s collection hasn’t really changed since his inception at the helm of the brand… but let us digress a little!
As each of the 115 looks was passing by, with all the commotion of church bells, intense music, and candlelight, people in the crowd, didn’t put their phone down for not even a second. Like we said before they were distracted…or maybe it’s the “social media addiction” thing we’ll never know! Inspired by the seventies with a mix of enfant terrible, rock, the too cool for school kids and nerds of the class; we really got an image that these kids, got invited to a party, hated it and decided to throw their own. They had a ball in the place they all seem to be able to fit-in while being themselves: the graveyard! Transparency, pastel color palettes, colorful tights, velvet, logomania, checks, and florals were all crucial elements of the garments that had a vintage vibe to them, but piece together they were extremely current… that’s probably because Gucci is dominating the fashion game right now.Crosses were seen, over and over again on the runway, as accessories, embroideries and overall components of the collection that we couldn’t help but think was a bit ironic. All we kept thinking was: Please don’t crucify the image you’ve created, we need you to keep that chair, Michele! Show us what other tricks you have up your sleeves because we know you’re not a one-trick pony. We want to see different eras, or at least different interpretation of them, changes and various elements to keep us on the edge of our seats and off our feet. By that, we don’t mean a change of venue around the world, but in the collections. We know by now that you love churches. We want off that 70’s train ride!
Skeletons, oversized bouquets, lace gloves, dark sunglasses, veils and the inscription “Memento Mori” were all different pieces integrated into the clothes. Not only to define the theme of the collection as death but as we watched the looks passed by we could definitely feel that the Gucci woman was dressed the part. She was either going to the cemetery to pay respect to a loved one or just going to a funeral. The men were equally dressed but warmer, they were seen with tracksuits, velvet capes, biker pants dark sunglasses and colorful sneakers. Peter Pan feathers were purposely too long on hats, mixing different prints in one outfit was a thing. Knitted sweaters with pink bows, unicorns and a circus animal that resemble a maleficent beast with the words “Chateau Marmont Hollywood” right under, made us believe that the designer was maybe pointing out subtly his thoughts of what’s been going on in the City of Angels lately.Alessandro Michele took us to a haunting, thrilling but glamorous and fashionable place for his Cruise 2019. We appreciate his storytelling skills, excellent sense of setting the mood, and to that, we must add, that he should follow his predecessor’s footsteps, Tom Ford, and produce movies! We know we would watch, the fashion would be out of this world, not to mention that he already has two people in his corner that would awesomely translate the stories he wants to tell on screen: Lana Del Rey and Jared Leto! That being said, we wish, Michele would express the story inside his head in different era sequences. We just are just dying to know more about these characters of his.
By Anne-Isabelle Saint-Pierre