Suit It Up Like Dior – BookF27

Suit It Up Like Dior

As of 2016, if there’s one thing the fashion CEOs have made clear is that business is more important than image, hence the constant change of creative directors… In some cases, digits have proven to also be more important than talent, but we’ll try not to point any fingers. As a matter of fact, these people are not done playing musical chairs just yet. How could they? Every other season a brand from the fashion group gets some major hype, and that can only mean more streaming numbers on live videos and hopefully more capital if the designer does well.So drum rolls please and make space for Mr. Kim Jones! If you thought it was impossible for someone to completely change style and aesthetic while doing an excellent job at it, in less than six months, Jones just prove you wrong. Not only did he exit Louis Vuitton with a bang but he also made an explosive entrance at Dior!

As we all know, three days before the Dior show, Kim’s mentee, Virgil Abloh released his first ever collection for Louis Vuitton. Although to some people it might seem unjust but comparing the two as they both mark a new time in these respective brands is merely a given. Unlike the Louis Vuitton runway, Jones opted for a space that was smaller but we would say probably held just as much people and the venue was extremely bright. As guests walked in, they were greeted by a giant cartoon teddy bear made for the house by KAWS, its entire body was made of flowers but what was most visible was, its head, shoes, and hands all in different shades of pink roses. The teddy bear was wearing a traditional black suit and was holding a ceramic bear, and its eyes were too giant balls of white roses with pink crosses. The front-row was just as star-studded as Louis Vuitton’s show, but the crowd looked in sync with the atmosphere. Victoria Beckham showed up with her son Brooklyn, Naomi Campbell with Lenny Kravitz, Kate Moss, Karl Lagerfeld, Bella Hadid, Rita Ora, Gwendoline Christie from Game of Thrones… you name it they were there!To start off the show, the 18-year-old Prince Nikolai of Denmark walked out the circled runway in a look that was a great hint of the entire collection; a white and baby blue suit with striped sleeves, a transparent white tank top, and sneakers…talk about mixing traditional and modern ways! Not only was the crotch a bit dropped but the sneakers had the vintage Dior monogram right under the PVC. This season it seems trends will be unisex as stripes, transparency, oversized pieces, and logomania have been spotted in both women’s fashion week and now in men’s fashion week. In fact, the Vintage CD monogram was seen throughout the collection on shirts, the stripes pants had matching jackets or shirts, lots of all white outfits but most importantly Jones used the Jouy motif of Dior’s Resort 2019 collection on coats, tank tops, and even overalls. Although mostly minimal when it came to the color palette, the nine-minute only show that consisted of 50 looks, had a few splashes of colors that we loved! Amongst them were the baby doll pink trench coat and suit, the washed yellow and grey shirt. That particular look is a must-have, the mix of the leather saddle bag and fanny pack will inevitably go off the shelves, and the sneakers with the CD monogram was current and trendy. Just like us, all of a sudden ASAP Rocky from now on wants to only wear suits and as Luka Sabbat mentioned after the show “the saddlebags are the accessories of this summer” and we couldn’t agree more! ASAP who has been a face of the brands many times, was wearing a look from the SS 19 collection and he loved the touch of the transparent tank with the CD monogram worn under, as it felt “very Miami to him.”   We also spotted florals and this time around because of the fabric manipulation, it was groundbreaking!  Seen on vests and jackets florals were juxtaposed right under PVC material, which gave it this undertone, washed, old feel that we actually liked. That texture manipulation is pretty cool and provides a fresh outlook on florals.The stars of this collection were, however, all the different prints and accessories! Each detail meant something to both the brand and the designer. The roses were a subtle way for Jones to have an imprint of  Mr. Dior himself in his first show for the house, as it was the founder’s favorite flower. Another small homage to the Maison of Dior was the bees that were carefully embroidered on the black overalls and the laser-cut leather bags. Lastly, the Jouy pattern was on the walls of Mr. Dior first boutique in 1947. As the 14th look came out, it was clear that there would be a new wave of must-have bags and shoes amongst the fashion crowd, as the grey backpack was a showstopper! Ten looks later, we saw pink sneakers that would typically be unusual for men, but worked out perfectly well. And later on down the line, although we got a soft rock vibe with all the different pieces of jewelry and caps, it was clear to us that this new Dior man is the new cool kid in town!

Kim Jones was able to utilize and even rely on the house savoir-faire and his incredible skills of creativity to deliver pieces that were simple, but that will for sure create an extreme demand. This is how you enter a new brand and prove to all that you’re the right person for the job! We love talent when we see it, and this new Dior image is just what the brand was looking for and needed.

By Anne-Isabelle Saint-Pierre